Ethiopia Travel Guide

Carved out of one piece of rock – church in Lalibela

Ethiopia’s historical circuit has long been a draw for history buffs, archaeology fans, and religious pilgrims. The well-defined “historical circuit” through northern Ethiopia is visited by 90% of travellers to Ethiopia.

The historical circuit takes place in four northern cities. The first is the Bahir Dar, a modern, bustling commercial centre set on the southern shore of Lake Tana. Here, a visitor can experience a traditional daily market, enjoy the rich birdlife, and visit the source of the Blue Nile, the many medieval monasteries dotted around the islands and peninsulas of Lake Tana, as well as the Blue Nile Falls. That is, on the increasingly rare occasions when the Nile’s water has not been diverted to fuel a neighbouring hydro-electric generator.

To the north is Gondar, which has been Ethiopia’s capital for almost 300 years from 1635, and today, it is noted for its impressive 16th-century castles and the spectacular Church of Debre Berhan Selassie. Use Gondar as a base to experience the Simien Mountains National Park. It is in the Simien Mountains National Park where the largest concentrations of Gelada Baboons and Walia Ibex can be found. Traditionally, this area was only accessible to trekkers and hikers, but since then, a rough road has been constructed, making access by 4×4 possible.

Axum, the capital of the Axumite Empire, which dominated the region for about 1000 years, is best known for the giant engraved obelisks that tower over the north-east of the town. These, along with palace ruins, inscribed tablets, and catacombs offer a look into the colourful history. The nearby Yeha Temple, estimated to have been constructed 2500 years ago; the church of Tsion Maryam, where Ethiopians claim is the last resting place of the Ark of the Covenant; and the Monastery of Debre Damo are just a few other highlights.

The medieval capital of Lalibela, secreted away in the mountains of Wollo is home to the eighth wonder of the ancient world, a complex of a dozen rock-hewn churches. These treasures are now serviced by daily buses and flights. Lalibela’s 11 churches are arranged in four groups, clustered for the most part within walking distance of each other on both sides of a stream known as the River Jordan. Some of the more remote churches can be reached with mules and a little hiking, only to provide stunning panoramas over the surrounding landscape. The northern group is considered the most impressive in terms of scale and detail.

Some of the Churches:

• Biete Medhane Alem is home to the Lalibela Cross and is known as “The House of the Saviour of the World”. It is believed that one can be healed by touching or brushing against the cross.
• Biete Maryam – The oldest of the Lalibela churches is said to be a replica of the tombs of Adam and Christ. The interior is decorated with superb frescoes across its pillars, arches, and ceilings.
• Biete Golgotha Mikael – Distinctive for the seven reliefs of saints around its outer walls, Biete Golgotha Mikael is said to be the final resting place of King Lalibela.
• Church of Saint George – The single most impressive church here is also the best preserved. This 15 m tower was built in the shape of a cruciform cross. Completely distinct from the other churches, the Church of Saint George sits in a deep pit and truly showcases the mastery of the builders.

Besides being an active shrine to a Christian civilisation that pre-dates its northern European equivalent by centuries, Lalibela also offers visits to the Axumite cave church of Yemrehanna Kristos, the isolated monasteries and churches around Bilbilla, the remote montane retreat of Asheton Maryam.

One of the tribes of the Omo Valley

Ethiopia’s Omo Valley is comprised of some 200,000 people, in eight tribes, who continue to live as agriculturalists and pastoralists. Each tribe in the Omo Valley is unique. The Mursi women have heavy lip plates, the Surma and Kara boys paint masks on their faces, the Hamer tribeswomen use ocre and butter to achieve their unique hairstyle, and their young men partake in their bull-jumping ritual to mark their coming of age.

We suggest that you go beyond the standard tourist fare. A cultural tour in the highland takes you to an area where life carries on the way it has done for centuries – in the weekly markets, the well-tended farms, and the peaceful hillside villages herding sheep and goats. Book a night in a community tukul in Konso or Dorze (a traditional thatched hut located within a village), where members of the community will look after you.

The more cattle you have, the more status you achieve in the tribe. As these tribes still practice the dowry system, the bigger the dowry (more head of cattle), the more important the woman. This results in women being prized for their ability to attract a large dowry.

Experience the Ethiopian and Eritrean restaurants, which serve the wot and injera (a slightly spongy, sourdough “pancake”), and wash it down with honey, wine, and coffee. Enjoy the local music of Ethio-jazz and reggae. Did you know that Emperor Haile Selassie I, also known as Prince Ras Tafari, is where the Rastafarian movement got its name from? He was regarded as the second coming of God, and Ethiopia, the promised land.

If you want to trek away from the crowds, Ethiopia is the place to do this. As the treks in Ethiopia, mainly in the Simien Mountain and Gheralta Mountain regions, are off the beaten track, they offer the opportunity to leisurely learn the culture from your guide and the encounters with the communities you pass through.

Trekking is not only about culture. Wildlife in the form of the Gelada and the rare Ethiopian Wolf may be encountered. Accommodation is in the form of locally owned lodges, which are mainly comfortable, if not luxurious, and there are also campsites for the adventurous.

Restaurant overlooking the highlands

Ethiopia’s highest peak, Ras Dejen, at 4563 m, is found in the Simien Mountains National Park and can only be explored by trekking. The enormous Baobabs of the Tekeze Valley can be visited on the way out of the park.

While the Simien Mountains may be the most famous mountain landscape in Ethiopia, to the south, the Bale Mountains National Park is fast becoming a favourite place to see the gelada “baboons”, Ethiopian wolves, and mountain nyala. There is also a small population of black-maned lions. You do not have to be a hardcore hiker to enjoy the scenery and wildlife. Day trips are possible, and a handful of new lodges offer a lot of comfort. The Bale Mountains National Park sports 280 species of birds and a quarter of the country’s endemic wildlife species.

The Galada’s are endemic to the high altitudes of the Ethiopian Highlands where they eat grass. They are the last surviving examples of these primates. The Gelada are not scared of humans and often cluster in large groups near tourists.

Colourful robes worn for a festival

As mentioned above, Ethiopia is known for its festivals and fasting. Every Wednesday and Friday, the Christians fast, as well as 55 days leading up to Easter. During these fasting periods, they prepare only vegan or vegetarian meals.

Worth mentioning is the Timkat Festival, unique to Ethiopia, which is celebrated on 19 January. This festival celebrates Jesus’s baptism in the Jordan River. Mass baptisms are performed on this day, with the most popular places being Lalibela, Addis Ababa, and Gondar.

Blue Nile Falls near Lake Tana

Lake Tana is the largest lake in Ethiopia. Basically heart-shaped, its shores and islands are home to ancient monasteries and churches. It is also well-known for its Colobus Monkeys, hippos, porcupines, rock pythons, hyenas, and abundant birdlife.

Waterfall in Awash National Park

Awash National Park, with a dormant volcano at its centre, provides a habitat for over 400 species of native birds, including ostriches. A boat trip on the Awash River will reward you with the sightings of crocodiles and many antelope species.

Large crocodiles in Nechisar National Park

Nechisar, in south-west Ethiopia, is one of the country’s least-visited national parks. Its terrain includes the Rift Valley escarpment, swamps, and forests. Herds of zebra and gazelle graze the grasslands, but sadly, the larger mammals are no longer present. To the south is Lake Chamo, and a patch of the shore is known as the “Crocodile Market”, where at times, hundreds of Nile Crocodiles can be observed. The rare Nechisar nightjar is of interest to the twitchers and bird lovers alike.

Prince Ruspolis Turaco- one of the endemics found in the sanctuary

Yabelo Wildlife Sanctuary, originally meant to protect the hartebeest, which has since been poached out, is now best-known for its incredible birdlife, with almost 200 known species, including the rare Prince Ruspoli’s turaco.

Abyssinian Ground Hornbill- endemic to Ethiopia

Ethiopia is one of the most rewarding countries in Africa for bird watching. With over 800 recorded species, including 23 endemics, The Bale Mountains, Awassa Lake, The Sanetti Plateau, and Abijatta-Shalla National Park offer sightings of pygmy goose, grey kestrel, and African firefinch. While not a bird, the Harenna Forest is the best place in the country to see the Ethiopian wolf.

Danakil Depression – one of the hottest places on earth

The Danakil Depression is located in the north-east of Ethiopia in the Tigrain Highlands. It has been formally noted as one of the driest and hottest places on earth, having an average temperature of thirty-five degrees centigrade. It is an astonishing area of geographical elegance, and a place occupied by active volcanoes, a lava lake, salted basins, lunar landscapes, and hot springs. It is the second-lowest place in the world, and the lowest place in Africa.

About 1 million White-Eared Kob migrate every year

White-eared Kobs are found in the Gambella Boma ecosystem. One of the most ecologically diverse in Africa, it includes forests and the floodplains of the Baro, Alwero, Gilo, Pibor, and Akobo rivers. The system is located on the transition zone from the East African ecological zone to the Central African ecological zone.

Gateway to the walled city of Harar

This covers parts of Ethiopia lying to the east of the capital. Its highlights include the wetlands around the Akaki River; the air-force town of Bishoftu (Debre Zeyit) with its attendant crater lakes; a mountaintop monastery at Zikwala; Awash National Park; the walled city of Harar, spiritual home of Ethiopia’s large Muslim community and home to the Hyena Men; as well as its less inspiring modern twin city of Dire Dawa.

Adadi Maryam church – one of the south’s many treasures

This is definitely the road less travelled. Here, you will find the Bale National Park, which is the best part of Ethiopia for viewing endemic wildlife, the majestic setting of Nechisar National Park and the Omo Valley. Routes to the south include:

• The route south from Addis Ababa to Butajira and Hosaina via Melka Kunture Prehistoric Site, the rock-hewn Church of Adadi Maryam, and the Tiya stelae field
• The route that follows the Rift Valley to the junction town of Shashemene and city of Hawassa
• The route that covers the wonderful trekking country and wildlife of the Bale Mountains National Park and environs
• The route that covers the road from Hawassa south to Moyale on the Kenyan border
• The route that concentrates on Arba Minch and Nechisar National Park, or on the cultural wonders of Konso and South Omo